D.after the trip to Athens and the one in Puglia of the past seasons, Dior lands in a new Mediterranean country: the Spain. More precisely a Sevillewhere last night Maria Grazia Chiuri presented the Cruise 2023 collection. The relationship between the place and the fashion that parades on the catwalk, which they communicate with each other through, appears to be central flamenco dresses and torero uniforms reinterpreted. With a show that can be defined as a real show, complete with a corps de ballet and live music, Dior gave a poetic parade dedicated to the folklore of Andalusian culture and local craftsmanship.
Dior Cruise 2023: craftsmanship and culture in Seville
The collection, full of historical references and details representative of the local savoir-fairis a tribute to the famous flamenco dancer The Capitanathat is to say Carmen Amaya. Dior celebrated the freedom of expression of this artist, who did not bow to the canons of beauty, dancing in the street in men’s clothes. Furthermore, Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to give space and voice to some local realities, like the Spanish choreographer Blanca Li, who took care of the dance show. And the Andalusian artisans, who have produced for this collection garments with a embroidery method defined by the designers herself “unique and high fashion. Nothing I’ve ever seen in Paris, Italy or India ”.
The common thread between Dior and Spain
The relationship between the Maison Dior and Spain has much more ancient origins than one might think. The choice of this location, in fact, has its roots in the proposals from the 1950s Monsieur Dior. From which a haute couture dress was recovered and paraded in the Plaza de España of the collection Bal à Seville Spring Summer 1956.
Subsequently, under the artistic eye of John Galliano, the brand still honored Andalusia, or rather flamenco. A bit like it was done for Cruise 2023, they were revisited the stylistic codes of the people’s clotheswith the difference that, this time, Mari Grazia Chiuri the people even involved him.
The contrasts of style on the catwalk
The undisputed protagonists, in a setting of magic and seduction, are dresses with a marked femininity and a strong character. You pass by key items of the local wardrobe, like the pants of the bullfighters or the short jacket with frogs, revisited in a modern way. To the essential wardrobe must-haves, such as shirts, which are worn under the boleros and vests ei pinstripe suits with tight pants to wear with riding boots. Parade on the catwalks a palette ranging from red to black, passing through shades of ocher and yellow, in a continuous alternation of ultra-feminine and masculine silhouettes in contrast. The richness of the taffeta dresses and precious lace can also be found on the accessories. Which boast thentarsi, embroidery and meticulous details on new models of bags, such as the bucket bag, or on iconic it-bags reinterpreted for the occasion, such as the Dior Book Tote and the Saddle Bag.
Dior’s creations celebrate the multiple visions of femininity, which bold and sensual explores the masculine codes of typical Spanish clothes in search of a unique style steeped in culture.
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