Wine tourism, a stop in Sardinia: wines to be tasted between beaches, boats and fishing
Wine tourism, this is an idea! So I tried to test the new wine tourism guide, IlGolosario Wine Tourout today, which reviews 1,025 wineries divided by regions and wine-growing areasto try to experience a different kind of tourism with friends, starting with Sardinia. Them at the sea, between beaches and boat rides with lots of attempted fishingI for cellars, to discover the pleasure of an offer that, year after year, will be enriched with new reception points.
The first stop was at the company Murals of Olbia (tel. 078953174), which is right on the road to Porto Rotondoin the locality of Piliezzu: you are immersed in the vineyards, while the structure of Piero Canopoli and his wife Giuliana consists of a group of stazzi (the rural houses of the past) where there are 9 rooms, but also a restaurant greedy who shows typical dishes: from fregola to zichi di mare, an ancient poor dish based on bread. And here you are immediately surprised by one of the rare Vermentino classic method, In Faulas Veritasan extra brut of character and softness that is a great invitation for the whole evening.
Their Vermentino di Sardegna 2021, the basic one, which is called “Su Soi”, conquers immediately, especially for its softness, even before tasting the superior “Miradas”, which is complex and which I always keep for several years or the Cannonau di Sardegna “Arcanos”.
Curious will be the Isola dei Nuraghi Bianco from viognier grapes “Sentence” 2020which tells the soul of this terroir, capable of mitigating the aromaticity of the vine, to give a wine of character, perfect on the cuisine of Murales.
They make eight wines, and as far as I’m concerned it is one of the companies that has offered me more surprises in recent years, but they still remain little known, locally and elsewhere (except in Milan where the sommelier Fabio Scarpitti has adopted them, with great satisfaction. ).
Still in the area, that is to Loiri Porto San Paolo (loc. Azzanidò – tel. 3402602507), it is worth going to the brothers Mura, Marianna and Salvatore, who have continued the intuitions of father Filippo, wrapped in this basin that is the Azzanidò valley, along the Sa Castanza river with the rocks surrounding the vineyards. The tasting room is large, on the first floor of the house; the cellar, with the barrel cellar underground, is a temple. And here rest those 7 wines we tasted, carrying out a classic tasting. Vermentino di Gallura “Cheremi” 2021 is the classic white citrus with notes of lemon peel; its finesse ends with a nice sapidity. The superior Vermentino di Gallura is sensational “Sienda” 2020 which has a color tending to gold and notes of apricot and honey, the result of a long maceration on the skins.
However it is the “Sienda il Decennio” 2019, the Vermentino even more extreme (yes, but don’t expect an orange with harshness that the ideologues of imperfect wines like: here we are the exaltation of finesse), with further maceration on the skins and fine lees , where citrus becomes the typical one of exotic fruit. It is a complex wine, which you drink with due meditation. Their Cannonau di Sardegna “Cortes” 2020 is typical of these lands: transparent ruby color, spiced fruit of small fruits. So much elegance and finesse, instead of the opulence that is expected from that type of wine. Isola dei Nuraghi “Baja” 2019 is a blend of cannonau and bovale grapes at 20% and here the warm notes become balsamic, with licorice in the background. Here, too, elegance, which I imagine is the result of Marianna’s skill in the cellar, but also of the temperature variations enjoyed by this valley of vines.
The third stage was in the area of the Asinara Gulf, exactly in Badesi (loc. Alza Longa – tel. 0799144480), where it does not seem true that the vines sink into the sand. The Li Duni company boasts the cultivation, rare avis, of the ungrafted vine. For this reason alone, it is worth stopping by, knowing that here the offer is the tasting of their 8 wines paired with typical cold cuts and cheeses, with the finish of caramelized fig for their late harvest Vermentino. They have created a beautiful, large reception structure, where the service is carried out with rare professionalism.
The wines you will taste are the result of low yields per hectare, therefore a considerable concentration and a characteristic flavor. Their best known Vermentino is the “Renabianca “2021 which has floral notes and a spectacular elegance, with an obviously savory finish. Also noteworthy is the rosé Minnamentu from cannonau grapes, which presents itself with spicy notes and then has a round entrance with subtle tannins. Cannonau di Sardegna 2020 is called “Nalboni” and offers juniper, mastic, but also balsamic notes of incense for a fresh finish. The red fruit of grapes (cannonau, bovale, carignano and pascale) is called “Tajanu” 2019 and it is on the same complex trail as the previous one, with an exemplary plum pregnancy in the mouth. But the fulfillment remains the Vermentino di Sardegna Superiore “Nozzinnà” 2021, that is a late harvested Vermentino with a light passimento, which is grandiose in its enveloping. 2015 has bright gold notes and you feel the almond, hints of hydrocarbons, of incense; the 2012 they opened to me had an even greater subtlety. And we could not help but combine it with a lobster from these parts, tasted at the Calipso restaurant in the bay of Mimosas.
What to say? Vermentino and Cannonau all with different facets, from area to area, but above all a lot of hospitality, relaxation, and meeting with the protagonists of the rebirth of Sardinian wines.
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