C.hanel chooses Florence to present his most iconic, handcrafted, authentic collection up close to the Italian public. The line Métiers d’art 2021/22 paraded in a frame created especially for the occasion at the Leopolda Station. And all eyes are on the garments and accessories signed by the Maison’s artisans, starting with those, careful, of Penélope Cruz48, brand ambassador and exceptional godmother of the fashion show.
A masterclass on craftsmanship with Italian students
On the occasion of the Chanel fashion show in Florence, the former railway station of the first half of the 19th century is filled with 1070 guestsmostly female stars – the director and friend of the Maison Sofia Coppolabut also the local actresses Coco Rebecca Edogamhe, Linda Caridi, Fotini Peluso, Alma Noce and Caterina De Angelis. The choice of the city, on the other hand, is not accidental: glamor is an addition, the absolute protagonists are the savoir faire of the fashion house and the craftsmanship of the capital, as demonstrated not only by the exclusive pieces that went on stage, but also the meeting held pre-fashion show at the Chamber of Commerce.
240 students from Polytechnic and Polimoda, the Academy of Costume and Fashion of Rome, Bocconi University and the Alta Scuola di Pelletteria gathered to follow a masterclass of Bruno Pavlovskypresident of Chanel, which was also attended by the Oscar-winning actress for the film Vicky Cristina Barcelona (2008). An important meeting opportunity in which Chanel has announced a collaboration with the Polytechnic, that of Milan. Long-term objective: to develop new production models in a sustainable and technological perspective. Because the artisan hand is fundamental, as confirmed by the actress, who answered the students’ questions explaining their importance, especially with regard to stage costumes.
Penélope Cruz and Chanel, longtime friends
Brand ambassador since 2018 (chosen by Karl Lagerfeld) Cruz first attended a Chanel show in 1999, and also wore several of the House’s outfits on set, as in the 2009 film The broken hugs by Pedro Almodóvar – “it was wonderful at the time to probe the archives with Pedro, to find the right pieces aimed at giving credibility to the character of Lena”, he stressed to Wwd.
The look for the show, a classic Nineties-style revival
To interpret herself as the brand’s muse at the Chanel 2022 fashion show in Florence, Cruz opted for a matelassé mini dress, paired with a sequin tunic and a cascade of pearl strings necklaces. A classic look that fully expresses Chanel’s typical characters and enhances her natural elegance, very “Italian”.
On the other hand, the link between Chanel and the Peninsula is long-standing. The last time that Chanel showed its Métiers d’Art collection here was in 2015 (at Cinecittà in Rome, seven years ago, for the 2015/2016 collection). After 7 years, the return: and today there are several specialized companies in the area that produce footwear, leather goods, tannery and textiles for the brand (many are located right on the banks of the Arno).
Camellias in the background
A bit like the exclusive Parisian location of le19M, the new hub of the Maison, the headquarters of craftsmanship inaugurated in 2021, which has 25,000 square meters of pure savoir faire. Designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti with the aim of building a reality that would also meet the needs of the youngest, last December 7 was the setting for the same show staged today in Florence.
Change of fittings: in Italy, at the Leopolda, a white space with walls wrapped in pleated curtains and camellias, the symbolic flowers of Chanel made by the Maison Lemarié, presented in an oversize version, recalling the reference to the dream world of the animated film that it anticipated the show. A cartoon created by the Remembers studio where three models / figurines land, after a trip to the ateliers, right on the fascinating course of the river.
Dressed, like real models, of suit with Nineties references, tweed micro vests, satin chemisier with jewel buttons, maxi dresses with delicate ton sur ton animal prints, maxi cardigan in feathers and pleated micro skirts with logo, as well as a riot of meticulous accessories, from two-tone Mary Jane to layering medallions to metal belts.
L’June 8 2022 the collection – highly handcrafted but absolutely wearable – makes its debut in Italian boutiques, and in the rest of the world from 9 June.
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