Al Clandestino: in the bay of Portonovo, summer comes to the table with the cinema

Ah the Clandestine! If all the trattorias on the sea were like this, the world of our restaurant would be happier! Caressed by the scent of the scrub of the Conero Regional Park, you leave a nice walk and land in the heart of the Portonovo bay: there is no paper to stain the beach, no annoying signs, no music. At the foot of the cliffs, wooden cabins, and a group of young boys and girls who discreetly walk around the tables. Time to look around and sit in the blue and white hut that Moreno Cedroni and Mariella Organi they wanted to build here at the beginning of the century: think of Greece for the simplicity of the lines, think of California, those places where muscular and exhausted surfers take their refreshments and slackers take refuge when they are tired and rain threatens. Fortunately, today it is quite hot, but through the windows open on all sides, the flow of air keeps you cool.

Fried green tomatoes at the train stop, from the new tasting menu of the Clandestino Susci Bar

Fried green tomatoes at the train stop, from the new tasting menu of the Clandestino Susci Bar

I’m used to the chef’s strokes of genius and even this turning point is not denied. If you come thinking you will find a spin off of the Madonnina del Pescatore, where it has achieved stellar successes, or to try the last of the scientist experiments that came out of his Tunnel in Senigallia, you are wrong, because the reversal of the fronts – and of the dishes – is constant. This time, fun is a certainty, because the last menu is called Susci Movies: “The words of cinema and the intentions of food. Cinema and food, so different, yet so similar: in cinema as in food we project our desires and our differences ”, she explains. “Both cinema and food are among the foundations of communication between people and their relationships. An example? The first romantic date as a boy happens to be at the cinema, or at dinner “.

How to disagree with his manifesto, a programmatic declaration that we find in the eight dishes that make up the tasting just born, which in the intentions of the host should see us customers in the role of actors. A cross homage to the value of food in films and to cultural and gastronomic diversities, as is inevitable in the geographical mix of tastes, flavors and habits. But be careful: no ‘strange famolo’ alla Verdone “! High start with Sex and the City and a well-shaken Cosmopolitan like Carrie Bradshaw would have drunk (and that I would have drunk a lot more load of vodka). While Massimo Franzingentleman of the dining room and captivating sommelier, offers me a well-chosen choice of glasses, a gazpacho arrives that enhances a delicious amberjack carpaccio: conceived with melon and horseradish and intended to console Pepa – we are in “Women on the verge of a nervous breakdown ”- which has just been left by Ivan.

I am distracted by the set of images arriving live from the beach: sailing boats and small canoes cross offshore, while in the foreground a group of girls spend their time spreading the cream to protect themselves from the sun. So enters the scene with perfect timing “Harry, meet Sally”: bluefin tuna pastrami, sweet and sour cucumbers, mustard leaves. “I’ll take the chef’s salad, but with oil and vinegar aside, and the apple pie, but heated and without ice cream, I recommend the ice cream on the side,” Sally orders in the film before launching a detailed explanation to Harry on the capacity. female to fake an orgasm, an imitation so convincing that it pushes a neighbor to ask the waiter curiously: “What did the young lady get? I would like that “. More modestly, I am satisfied with an important novelty: for the first time since the Clandestino has existed, that is, for 22 years, there is a risotto: with three sauces and pesto, spectators interested in a cheerful duel between seafood and prawns. Nail cooking, flawless.

In Cedroni’s creative mind: the Magic Tunnel where the cuisine of the future is born

by Giulia Mancini



But the Winner is: “Ratatouille”. Cedroni explains: “Among the most beautiful scenes stands the moment when the severe food critic Anton Ego tastes the Ratatouille prepared by the tender mouse-chef Remy and suddenly finds himself projected back in time, to his childhood”. If there is a protagonist of Italian gastronomic criticism it is our dean, a man with an Absolute Palate that some traits of Anton Ego can remember, but who fortunately is a profoundly good man. The fact is that this dish brings back from my remote memory the memory of the aubergines that my grandmother used to cook for the parmigiana. A flavor as ancient as it is alive that I keep by giving up for once the usual tumblerino of whiskey …

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